The wonderful world of Elsa Schiaparelli
There once was a young girl who planted flower seeds in her mouth and nose in the hope of becoming more beautiful. This young girl was Elsa Schiaparelli. This story and more are told in a new exhibition Schiaparelli - Fashion Becomes Art which explores the designer’s work at London’s V&A gallery in South Kensington. Weaving between the different rooms I was drawn to a surreal painting by Salvador Dali, owned by Schiaparelli and showing a woman with a full face of flowers, believed to reference the story.
The V&A exhibition is a striking mix between Schiaparelli old and new. In one room we see a 1930s Schiaparelli wool felt coat, taking inspiration from harlequins for her 1939 collection ‘A modern comedy.’ Alongside this design, we see a painting by friend and collaborator Man Ray - ‘Fair Weather’ (Le Beau Temps).
The attention to detail is apparent throughout the exhibition, from delicate, surrealist embroidery to unusual, playful clasps and button designs. It’s clear Schiaparelli had fun with her designs which include acrobats, watchful eyes and carousel horses - her pieces are truly unique.
This curiosity and uniqueness has continued to the present day. Fast forward to now, over 80 years on and Kylie Jenner arrives at the 2026 Met Gala where the theme is ‘Costume Art’. Her ‘dropped ball gown’ was a creation brought to life by now head of Schiaparelli Daniel Roseberry who took over as Creative Director in 2019. Jenner’s dress required 11,000 hours of embroidery work and 10,000 natural baroque pearls.
The V&A exhibition beautifully mixes old and new Schiaparelli. For fans of the designer, seeing the designs up close is real visual treat. To those unfamiliar, this exhibition is the perfect introduction to a brand rich in history and storytelling.
Schiaparelli - Fashion Becomes Art runs at The V&A until November 8th, 2026.
For more on Daniel Roseberry, check out this excellent life in the day video from Vogue.